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 Fondazione Arte della Seta Lisioinv.37 Veronese brocade Gros de Tours liseré and lancé Width: 130 cm Pattern repeat : 32 x 32.2 Warp ground: silk organzine 60/66 Decoupure: 1 thread Thread count: 52-54 threads per cm. 3 Wefts: ground and lancé: silk 80/88 brocades: gold and silver threads false gold and silver threads Proportion: 2 ground, 1 lancé and brocaded wefts Decoupure: 1 pass Thread count: 16-18 passes per cm Mounted "a corpo semplice" 4 straight comber units of 1728 arpini a corda semplice. The Veronese brocade was produced by Giuseppe Lisio for the first time in about 1915. The inspiration, in keeping with his revival of renaissance tradition, came from a fresco by Veronese depicting Justice in the Ducal Palace in Venice. The aim was to create a brocade in gold and silver thread with a pattern of stylised rossettes. To soften and give movement to the pattern other floral elements were introduced at oblique angles on either side of the central motif. Their shape and the general arrangement of the pattern were taken from a piece of seventeenth-century material acquired by Lisio for research purposes. The choice of colour, a variation of orange and the decision to use only silver and gold threasds for the brocade was also influence by this fragment which was of of high technical quality. The pattern on the historic piece was on a small scale as was fashionable on fabrics for clothing in the first half of the seventeenth century; the ground was enriched with silver lancé threads, worn in several places. In order to make the new cloth appear older, more like the one in his collection, Lisio gave it a slighly worn appearance by using irregular floats in the weft ground and a contrasting lancé weft. The result is a remarkable brocade suited both to furnishing (curtains, covers, cushions) and for formal or evening wear. The Queen of Denmark (in the photo), at her jubilee wears a gown made in "Veronese" brocade. (Jacquard nr. 15, October 1992) |
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